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Thread: ,62 caliber Muzzleloader

  1. #1
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    ,62 caliber Muzzleloader

    I've got a 1 1/8" .62 barrel (.615) and instead of shooting patched round balls, I want to try conicals. I'm looking at an N.E.I. mould #397A that is .610 and weighs 900 gr or .700 gr. (my choice). The twist is 1-30" and the grooves are .002" deep or .614" overall. The slugs can drop from mould up to .003" oversize for a total of .617". The old .600 N.E. was .622" I"m told it will work. I'm wondering if "pre-engraving" would be necessary since I don't have a press large enough to size them.

    I fully expect some kidding but hopefully, there will be some legitimate advise. After all, when you get elephants in your back yard, you gotta do something!

  2. #2
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    Unless this gun was designed for heavy loads

    I would not use anything bigger than a patched round ball. What is the gun?
    .62 (20ga) is often found in trade guns, french style flintlocks and other early guns. I would never use a 700 gr bullet in one of those.

  3. #3
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    ,62 caliber Muzzleloader

    Thanks Wulf,
    Initially, the lock will be an under hammer action. The strength issue relates to the breech plug, the nipple hole, and the barrel quality. I plan to use a gold nipple with the heavy loads but there are at least two methods of drilling the barrel for the nipple and I don't know what is best for high pressure. Any suggestions?
    Dick

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    Is it a rifle? Smooth bore? Length? Origin of the barrel? Kit?
    Moving like an arctic lizard.

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    Thumbs up ,62 caliber muzzleloader

    My barrel is a custom rifled 1 1/8" barrel. The twist is 1-30". Ignition is direct, via under hammer action. My bullets will be cast from a Mountain Mould that will be cut after the barrel is properly measured. Breech will be plugged for my action. The length will be established by balance of assembled gun and then barrel will be cut and crowned.

    Don't know any "Arctic lizards" but, if they move as slow as me, they're in big trouble!
    Last edited by Tennessee-Traveler; November 16th, 2008 at 09:53 AM. Reason: mis-selled word

  6. #6
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    1x30 is a little fast for round ball any way the conical or Buffalo bullet style sounds like it will work better, the mould sounds fine but you may have to try a couple of different lead mixes to drop what you want, I would pop over to Track of the Wolf and talk with those guys, and some of the black powder sites. If your not sure of the size on the mould talk with a couple of others like Dixie

    The under hammer is good to go, have one from Pacific in 8 bore.
    "Just antoher day in Oz!!!"

  7. #7
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    .62 cal muzzleloader

    Finally got my barrel. It slugged exactly .613 on bore and .621 for the grooves. making my grooves .004 " deep. I also got a scrap piece of my barrel to use for pre engraving my bullets!

    It looks like this might be a good year!


  8. #8
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    Why the fast twist?

    Where are you in TN?

    Tip Curtis can answer your questions with authority and has more stuff in stock that most mail-order houses. He's in Cross Plains. He's helping me get into the flinty game. Got a bbl and lock from him last week.

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    What will you be hunting? You might be surprised at how quickly a ball that size will put a deer down. I wonder how well a ball will do in that fast twist, but it's always worth a try. My experience with round balls in .54 tells me that no elk will go far if hit well (that's good for any rifle, any bullet, any time, of course), and so far I haven't needed to go to slugs.

    Since the mold is already on the way, be sure to give us a range report! What will the slug weigh?
    "What's good for me might not be good for the weak-minded."- Augustus McRae

  10. #10
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    Talking .62 Caliber Muzzleloader

    My stock arrived yesterday and it is beautiful! It is Arkansas Black Walnut with lots of stripe! I've been working on my under hammer action since mid December, so I didn't have anything new to report until now. The action arrived as as rough casting and is supposed to a copy of the original Billingham Under Hammer Action.

    Dave Crossno at Dibble Guns - http://www.angelfire.com/ok5/crossnostocks/
    cut a pattern for me based on some photos. When I saw the wood, I realized why the early settlers used Maple! It was because they didn't know any better. Every rifle I own is stocked in walnut and this stuff was night & day different! Dense and dark, not like the east coast stuff on factory rifles.

    I met Dave in a round about way. I was wanting to build a black powder cartridge gun and was impressed by the Frank Wesson #1 under-lever. It was re-engineered using modern steel and CNC technology by Steve Earl. After a little surfing, I discovered that Dave built the stock for that rifle. Steve Earl markets that fine action as the Wesson #2 - (I think). As it turned out, Dave is a single shot rifle specialist who also sells gunstocks. His work goes from reasonable to world class but, I have a hard time imagining "World Class" after seeing my reasonable gun stock.

    Tony Knight brought back the idea of direct fire with the Mk-85 in-line rifle and virtually everyone got on board! Direct fire is far superior to the drum in conventional muzzle loaders. With the cap in the breech plug, the design lends itself to conventional spring-loaded bolt and trigger assemblies, hence the name "in-line". While I bought my first Knight in 1985, I still like under hammers the best.

    The first under hammer came on the scene in about 1835. The idea was too far ahead of its time. It was direct fire, not from the rear using a firing pin but, from underneath using a regular cap getting struck by a traditional hammer. In spite of vastly improved lock time and simplicity of construction, and no hammer hitting caps in the shooters face, they never caught on with gunsmiths who refused to part with tradition. Under hammers were used as target rifles in the last half of the nineteenth century during the black powder hay-day. They were and still are extremely accurate and are used to this day at LRML matches at ranges out to 1000 yds. They have the lock time and the reliability of an in-line but are classed as traditional not modern.

    When the marriage between the stock & lock is complete I'll continue with my barrel report - which is what started this whole thing!
    Last edited by Tennessee-Traveler; February 12th, 2009 at 08:47 PM. Reason: typos

  11. #11
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    This sounds like a neat project. I'd like to see some "in build' pics as well as the finished product.
    Before pedersoli came out with their 20 gauge howdah pistol I'd considered building one, and was suprised at the variety of locks and barrels out there for this kind of thing.
    "Your firing is very good. Keep at it, every shot is telling" Admiral Horace Hood, on board HMS Invicible, shortly before she exploded.

  12. #12
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    New shooter

    Looking for some sound advice for a new shooter to the sport.

    Q&A I have a side by side .62 cal rifle (Both barrels have rifleing). The barrels are short - equivalent to a standard side by side shotgun. I have fired a .61 cal ball from Track of Wolf, greased patch, using 90 to 120 gr RS FFG equivalent. The 120 gives a better recoil and keeps in a 10" circle at 50 yards.

    I'm looking for a table that recomends load vs slug weight for best results. The gun appears to be custom, no markings, bbls appear to be steel sleaved with stainless?? Previous owner went to his maker before I aquired so I can't ask questions. Gun is in good condition but has been used.

    I have found that a patched 20 ga rifle slug (slug only) would be a perfict fit. I can't find a slug supplyer or a mold. Open to suggestions.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by John68 View Post
    Looking for some sound advice for a new shooter to the sport.

    Q&A I have a side by side .62 cal rifle (Both barrels have rifleing). The barrels are short - equivalent to a standard side by side shotgun. I have fired a .61 cal ball from Track of Wolf, greased patch, using 90 to 120 gr RS FFG equivalent. The 120 gives a better recoil and keeps in a 10" circle at 50 yards.

    I'm looking for a table that recomends load vs slug weight for best results. The gun appears to be custom, no markings, bbls appear to be steel sleaved with stainless?? Previous owner went to his maker before I aquired so I can't ask questions. Gun is in good condition but has been used.

    I have found that a patched 20 ga rifle slug (slug only) would be a perfict fit. I can't find a slug supplyer or a mold. Open to suggestions.
    It's always best to start a new thread with a new question instead of adding a new question to an old thread.

    Most folks ignore post dates, and will see this as a "new thread", read from the top, and by the time they get to your question, may not "see" it at all, or consider it "off topic".
    "Tactical" is a mindset, not an equipment list.

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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by John68 View Post
    Looking for some sound advice for a new shooter to the sport.

    Q&A I have a side by side .62 cal rifle (Both barrels have rifleing). The barrels are short - equivalent to a standard side by side shotgun. I have fired a .61 cal ball from Track of Wolf, greased patch, using 90 to 120 gr RS FFG equivalent. The 120 gives a better recoil and keeps in a 10" circle at 50 yards.

    I'm looking for a table that recomends load vs slug weight for best results. The gun appears to be custom, no markings, bbls appear to be steel sleaved with stainless?? Previous owner went to his maker before I aquired so I can't ask questions. Gun is in good condition but has been used.

    I have found that a patched 20 ga rifle slug (slug only) would be a perfict fit. I can't find a slug supplyer or a mold. Open to suggestions.
    Hi John,

    Out of curiosity, just in front of the trigger guard is there a mark of a lightning bolt with a circle over it? If so the barrels were designed for a 'minie ball' type slug and the molds should have come with it. The back third of the slug is somewhat hollow and designed to expand with the pressure of the gas.

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