Need Parts for T/C Hawken

[jojosdad]

I just picked up a pair of T/C rifles today. One's a .36 cal Seneca, and the other is a .50 cal Hawken. The lock on the Hawken is a lot easier to cock than the Seneca, and it takes 2 strikes for it to set off a primer. I'm thinking that I need a new spring in the lock.
Can anyone point me towards a manual and parts source for this?
Thanks

[Jack R]

Had the same problem bout ten years ago..50 cal Hawken bought used,called T/C and they send me a lock rebuild kit...FREE....also they told me to look at the under side of the barrel, if it had a maltese cross stamped on it..(it did) they said do not fire it..send the barrel to them for replacement. $125 for the rifle...rebuilt lock and new barrel free...what a deal Jack

[jojosdad]

Thanks Jack, I'll call them after I post this.

[TEDDY]

always try the manufacturer first.the next spot is "gun parts"

[AJumbo]

Try the auction sites; sometimes you can find complete locks for pretty reasonable $$. It's nice to have spare parts, but spare sub-assemblies are way faster to install.

[Jimfern]

I would love to get a small caliber barrel for my T/C Hawken.

[AJumbo]

I'm always on the look for a Renegade barrel in either .54 or something more "squirrely"-sized. A Renegade barrel will drop right in to a 1" Hawken stock.

The best $125 I ever spent was for a Green Mountain round ball barrel for my Hawken. I needed it; the factory barrel, after about 12K rounds, finally started to burn patches.

[Omnivore]

A cap that fits too tight on the nipple will cause misfires just as you describe also. The hammer energy is partially spent seating the cap. If it misfires on the first try, but fires on the second try, it's a tight fitting cap. Look at the top of the nipple for signs of peening. This happens from dry firing a caplock and it can cause an overly tight fit. The cure there is to turn the burr off the end of the nipple. If the end of the nipple is OK, try a larger cap. Remington caps fit looser than CCI caps of the same number, for instance.

Greater mainspring tension will overcome the problem of poor cap fit, just with brute force, but if the fitting problem exists, it should be solved first. A proper setup will fire every time, even with a relatively light mainspring.

[AJumbo]

Omnivore's right....try a nice, relatively inexpensive replacement nipple, along with some different caps. If you're using #10s, try 12s. RWS caps seem to be snugger than CCIs or Remingtons. Nipples and caps aren't the place to scrimp.

New Hot Shot nipple: $5

Tin of CCI #12 percussion caps: $4

Missing that 6x6 bull elk because the rifle wouldn't fire: priceless.

[jojosdad]

Thanks for the advice.
The nipple looks fine, and I've been using CCI #11 caps. The reason I suspect the spring is that it takes markedly less effort to cock the 50 than it does the 36 or my CVA Hawken.

[Omnivore]

I was having the exact same problem sometimes-- first strike failed, second strike fired the cap. I tried lowering the hammer and pushing it hard against the cap to seat it all the way down, but that did little to help. Simply switching from CCI #11 caps to the slightly looser fitting Remington #11s eliminated the problem.

Another difference is that if I seated a CCI cap tight, it was extremely difficult to remove it (sometimes you want to de-prime for safety reasons, as in climbing a tree or leaving the charged rifle overnight for the next day's hunt, driving from one shooting or hunting spot to another, etc.) but the Remington cap can be pulled off with the thumb and index finger. And there's your test right there-- if you can't pull off a cap (that's been pushed hard onto the nipple) using your fingers, you probably want a looser cap fit, even if you have a very stiff mainspring.

[jojosdad]

Thanks - I'll give the Remmies a try.