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Thread: Rohm/RG Models 63 and 66

  1. #1
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    Rohm/RG Models 63 and 66

    I like 'em. They fit my hand well, fire well, and I've never had a hiccup from any of my 3 Model 66's -- And I've got a M63 on the way.

    1. Anybody out there own one of these? Comments??

    2. How difficult is it to disassemble, and then reassemble one?

    3. Anybody have an exploded diagram for the M66/63?

    I know that the earlier Rohms, the Model 10, for example, had...problems, but my thoughts are that the later guns were pretty good.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    I've never seen one that wasn't stamped "West Germany," and I was under the impression that they weren't imported after 1968.

    A gunsmith I know once spent quite some time trying to find parts for one of their derringers, but they don't seem to be out there.
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  3. #3
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    I've never seen one that wasn't stamped "West Germany," and I was under the impression that they weren't imported after 1968.



    RG opened up shop in Miami for a period after GCA69 stopped the imports.

  4. #4
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    Thx

    Griz and Servo, thank you for your comments.

    I love my Rohm/RG M66's, but would like to learn how to disassemble/reassemble them myself. I might have to pay a 'smith to show me how.

    I'll keep you apprised.

  5. #5
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    I have an old Rohm RG10 I believe. It's a tiny little .22 and in decent shape. Anybody know approximate value of this gun or where to find out?

  6. #6
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    Rg-10

    Go to www.GunBroker.com

    At the search box type in either Rohm or Roehm...

  7. #7
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    Never dealt with the RG 66.
    My RG 63 is in .38 spl and is a great shooter. I bought it non firing and had to take it apart to fix it. fortunately the problem was the inside was packed with cosmoline (it was also missing parts that I ended up making). Reassembly was a pain in the... anyways. I think mine is awesome.
    The big problem with the RG 63 is that there is at least three of them: One in .22 and two in .38. You can tell the difference between the .38s (lack of) proof marks or the transfer bar being a wire or made of sheet metal, or if the cylinder is recessed or not. The parts do not interchange. Mine is the wire, and all the parts kits I find are the sheet metal bar. Fortunately I just needed the assembly that holds the cylinder pin in place, and was able to make the one from the parts I bought work. I also own the 14, 14S, 26, and when it shows up, the 38. From all of what I have seen: The imported ones are better, except my RG 26 because the entire shop must've got some the night before.
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  8. #8
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    W houle: Thx for your comments. I learned a few things.

    I have several Rohm Model 66's and one 63. The 63 is in 22LR and is real beat up, but still fires well -- altho the trigger is like a heavy DA trigger -- this on a SA gun.

    My Model 66's, although old, fire great and I haven't had problem one. I want to learn how to disassemble/reassemble them, but have zero mechanical skills. I'll prolly have to pay a smith to show me.

    Good luck with your revolvers
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    Simply because I never tire of showing it:

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    I want to learn how to disassemble/reassemble them, but have zero mechanical skills. I'll prolly have to pay a smith to show me.
    Trust me on this, eh? I was an English major.

    The bigger the hammer, the sooner you'll get the gun apart.
    No tyrant should ever be allowed to die a natural death.

  11. #11

    Model 63 - parts?

    I need an ejector rod for my 22 cal ROHM model 62 - since parts are so few and far between. Any suggestions?

  12. #12
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    Replaced my ejector rod with a carefully bent piece of welding rod. Ejector rod return spring got replaced by a spring from a dime store rubber-tipped dart gun. Ejector rod was salvaged after a bit of careful time with hammer, blunt chisel, and anvil.

    That's what it takes to repair what happens to an R/G 66 when it falls out of your holster and lands under the rear wheel of your dirt bike.
    "Curiosity killed the cat, but for a while I was a suspect."
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