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Thread: Cerama Coat DIY - how much take down do I need?

  1. #1
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    Cerama Coat DIY - how much take down do I need?

    Hi y'all, this is my first post to this forum, but I've been reading on here for a long while. I just bought a new/old Sig P225, a W. German police import from 1983. It's got good frame finish but the slide is worn in several places, and after going back and forth about what the best way to refinish it would be, I decided on trying Wheelers Cerama Coat. I've read their directions and read as many threads as I could find about it, but my big question is this:

    How much do I need to take apart the slide of my Sig? It's got the 2 roll pins holding the firing pin assembly in, does everything need to be taken apart or can I safely spray and bake the slide with the firing pin assembly still in the slide? Thanks ahead of time, I tried to register on SigForum.com but they don't like any of the 4 email addresses I have and the webmaster wouldn't even receive my question asking him how to register, so they can all go take a flying leap!

  2. #2
    Senior Member  
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    welcome to THR, I have'nt used ceramacoat but if it's like the other spray ons it's best to use an abrasive blaster with about 90 grit for best adhesion.
    so this means total takedown.

  3. #3
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    12-27-03
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    Preparation is 95% of the final finish so yes: You need to to disassemble it all of the way so that you can abrasive blast it. After abrasive blasting it, you should Parkerize it so that the finish has a good base to adhere to. Here's a link to our Photo page. http://www.shootiniron.com/PHOTOS.html
    It's a large page but once it's loaded, scroll down to the end. There's a series of photo's of a SIG that was coated without disassembling it first. All the guy did was field strip it. WARNING! It's nasty looking! Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
    Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
    Mac's Shootin' Irons
    http://www.shootiniron.com

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the replies. I've read a lot and watched several Sig take down videos, so I'm relatively confident I can do it. When I punch out the 2 roll pins in the slide, does it matter which side I start on?

  5. #5
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    I usually knock them out from left to right but when you say "2 pins", you mean the two that are one inside of the other right? If that's the case, you may want to pick up a new set. You can get them at Brownell's, etc. Yes, I've re-used the old ones before but they can break during disassembly. (Per SIG, you're not supposed to use the old ones over) If you put a very slight taper on one end of the pin, it'll go back together easier and smoother. You're not grinding a point on it!...just take the edge off. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.

    Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
    Mac's Shootin' Irons
    http://www.shootiniron.com

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the tip about the roll pin taper. Yep, I've got the folded-type slide and it has 1 pin inside a bigger one, and I've got new pins to go in if I take the old ones out. I decided I'm just going to start with the mag and see how it turns out before I try anything else. I found a copy of the Sig armorers manual for the p225 and it doesn't mention anything about starting from one side or the other.

  7. #7
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    I decided to try it on just the magazine first, and it actually looks really good. I'm going to use the mag a little bit to see how well it actually stays on before I try it on the rest of the gun, but it was really easy to do and it really didn't make the kitchen smell too bad at all. I had all the windows open and a box fan blowing out the door, and you can definitely smell it but it wasn't horrible.

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