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Thread: Colt Navy model 36 caliber

  1. #1
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    Colt Navy model 36 caliber

    I just purchased a colt navy model and would like to know a little about it. When was it made, is the manfuacture (maker) a good one do they make a good solid gun as I want to use it as a target shooter, what is the model name 1858 1861 Navy Model or what.
    The barrel is marked Euroarms-Brescia made in Italy and has SH in a circle. The serial number is 0653. The other side of the barrel has 36 cal.Navy Model black powder only. The cylinder has ships engraved on it also has Patent N. and engraved 16 May 1843 written on it. On the case under the cylinder there is a star with PN under it , xx8 and also a star with a shield but can not make out what is in the shield. The top of the barrel has Hy Score Arms Corporation-Brooklyn-N.Y. on it. What would the value be I paid $115.00. Did I over pay?

  2. #2
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    The Colt Navy model is commonly referred to as the model of 1851. Unless it is a model of 1861 but those are less common and you can look up pictures to see the difference. It is known as the Colt Navy because of the naval battle scene on the cylinder, not because the USN was the big buyer.

    Euroarms in Brescia, Italy IS the manufacturer. I have no experience of their quality or the value.

    There ought to be somewhere a Roman numeral or two letters in a square as a date code.
    Hy Score was in operation from about 1950 til 1980, better known for their air guns than black powder. Yours may have come in with the first wave of Civil War Centennial repros but the date code will tie it down.
    I have a few facts and a lot of opinions.

  3. #3
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    The XX8 is the date code but <<i dont have my reference book handy, it is home. XX8 is probly in the late 1960s to 197Os.

  4. #4
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    The naval battle scene says 'Engaged' not engraved.
    The cylinder featured a roll-engraved scene of a
    battle between ships of the navies of the Republic of Texas and Mexico. The battle took place in the Gulf of Mexico on May 16th, 1843.
    click here.....

  5. #5
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    Don't know of date codes using arabic numerals, but XX is '64

  6. #6
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    These are not target pistols, so don't expect target pistol performance out of them. Especially with the rudimentary sights supplied and the open frame design.
    PN is the proof mark, N is for Negro (and not nitro). XX8 is 1972. The star-in-a-shield is the Gardone, Val Trompia, proofhouse mark.

    See https://store.bluebookinc.com/Info/P...Proofmarks.pdf

  7. #7
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    Doesn't "Navy" refer to the caliber, as in "Colt Revolving Pistol of Naval Caliber"? It is my understanding that the .36s were referred to as 'Navy" while the .44s, at least from 1860 on (as opposed to the Dragoons) were referred to as "Enlarged" or "Army" caliber.

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    'the navy size' is a phrase often used at the time (meaning caliber).

  9. #9
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    Thumbs up

    Yup, there's just something about the "Navy" Colt that's special...

    ...since a picture is worth a thousand words, here's what I have to say:


    Old No7
    "Freedom and the Second Amendment... One cannot exist without the other." 2000 DTH

  10. #10
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    xx8

    Quote Originally Posted by Hellgate View Post
    The XX8 is the date code but <<i dont have my reference book handy, it is home. XX8 is probly in the late 1960s to 197Os.
    It is 1972

  11. #11
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    Get the following:
    Black powder of FFFG granulation, OR Pyrodex P.
    Wonder Wads of .36-caliber, made by Ox Yoke.
    Remington (preferred), CCI or RWS No. 11 percussion caps.
    .375 inch diameter lead balls.
    Bore Butter, or similar grease made for black powder. Crisco will do in a pinch.
    Powder flask with 20, 22 and 24 gr. measuring nozzles.
    Nipple wrench for revolvers.
    Cleaning rod -- a .38 caliber rod with .40-caliber brushes works well.

    Tap out the wedge from right to left with a plastic or rubber mallet, to avoid marring the frame around the wedge. Never use a steel hammer.
    With the wedge out as far as it will go (the wedge screw will keep it from coming out totally), pull the barrel assembly forward and off.
    Remove the cylinder.
    Smear Bore Butter or Crisco on the big pin that goes through the cylinder. Cock the hammer carefully and smear a thin film of grease along the sides and front of the hammer, and in the hammer channel of the frame.

    Run a cleaning patch wet with lighter fluid through the barrel and into each chamber, to remove factory preservative that may be left.

    Reassemble the revolver.

    At the range, snap two caps on each nipple over the unloaded chambers. This will blow out any dust or oil, and dry the chamber so the powder is not contaminated.
    A good, starting load in the 1851 Navy is 20 grs of FFFG, or equivalent volume of Pyrodex P.

    After you've snapped two caps on each chamber, and got a good "pop" each time, set the hammer to halfock to allow the cyliner to turn.

    Fill the chamber with 20 grs. of powder. Thumb a Wonder Wad into the loaded chamber, below flush. Rotate the cyilnder and ram the wad down firmly on the powder, using the rammer under the barrel.
    Do this for all 6 chambers if you're firing at the range right away, or 5 chambers if you intend to carry the gun in a holster.
    If you're carrying it, load only five chambers and ease the hammer down on the empty, 6th chamber. This is what the old-timers did, to ensure safety.

    Now, rotate the cylinder and ram a ball down firmly on the seated wad. There should be NO space bewtween the powder, wad or ball! Having a space creates a dangerous condition that can raise pressures greatly.

    If you use a lubricated felt wad between ball and powder, there is no need to put grease over the ball. Felt wads save you time, and a whole bunch of mess.

    Place caps on the nipples at the rear of the cylinder and you're ready to go. If the caps seem a loose fit, pinch them into an elliptical shape before placing them on the nipples. This elliptical shape will be "ironed out" when placed on the round nipple, but it will create tension for the cap to grasp the nipple firmly.

    You're ready to shoot.

    These revolvers are not toys. They are deadly. Treat them as safely as you would any other firearm.

    NEVER leave your powder or caps on the bench over which you're firing. Put them behind you, away from any spark.
    ALWAYS wear eye and ear protection.
    Be mindful of other shooters beside you, or spectators next to you. These guns throw a lot of white-hot sparks and material from the gap between the cylinder and barrel. NEVER let anyone stand to the side when firing.
    Never shoot over dry, tall grass or anywhere you may start a range or forest fire with all the sparks black powder or its substitutes generate.

    The Colt design, with its notch in the hammer and brass bead front sight, almost always places its balls high on the target at 25 yards, as much as 12 inches higher than the point of aim.
    Cap and ball revolvers were designed to augment the single-shot, muzzleloading rifle out to 100 yards or so, so that's why they're sighted to hit high.
    To compensate a bit, you can file the notch in the hammer a little deeper, or add a taller front sight.
    BUT it's best to use these revolvers as-is. Before making permanent adjustments to the sights, find your most accurate load and adjust the sights to that.

    Round balls are almost always more accurate than conical bullets.
    Hodgon 777 MUST be used at a 15% reduction in volume, compared to black powder or Pyrodex P.
    In my experience, 777 is not as accurate. Hodgdon does not recommend the use of 777 in brass-framed revolvers. It's strong stuff.

    Be careful. Be safe. Misdirected bullets don't come with erasers. Enjoy that cap and ball revolver, and clean it well immediately after use to prevent rust.
    "And therein did I see an ugly cat. Blue smoke. Brimstone. Holes in paper. And this ugly cat was much amused." --- the prophesies of Gatodamus (1503 - 1566).

  12. #12
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    I enjoy shooting my 1851 replica.

    CD
    De Oppresso Liber

    Iraq: 91,03-06,08, 09,15 & 16'
    Afghanistan: 09,10',11',14',17' & 18'

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