Evaluate my carry knives

[Boberama]

I carry a Puma 270 3.75" folder all the time. This is my "utiliy" knife for tasks that involve cutting.

I also carry a Sykes-Fairbairn second pattern. This is my "non-utility" knife.

And sometimes at night when I feel like it, a British Kukri.


Strengths/weaknesses? Is the rat-tail tang on the SF a problem? Any better knives? I don't know much about knives.

[James T Thomas]

Bob:

I have a Shrade folder that I really like. But I have obtained more utility use out of a small cheap 2 1/2 inch clip point folder that is in my pocket because that narrow tip gets into small openings, like removing the cotton packing wad from aspirin bottles, ect.

The "rat tail" tang on the S,F makes a good impact weapon for adjunct to any cutting or stabbing motions.

The Kukri is an awesome weapon. I slid off a paper wrapping over a cosmoline layer from a genuine Kukri when I was a young man and laid my palm wide open with that knife! In the '50's. That steel and edge were wicked.
For close encounters of the first kind, it can't be beat.

[catspa]

There may be "better" knives out there, but the real question is, would they be they better for you and your individual cutting needs?

Your 3-3/4" folding hunter is a very serviceable knife, and unlikely to fail you if you keep it sharp and don't pry with the tip or lever it sideways. I've carried a similar Buck or Case model for over 20 years. If it's the one I'm thinking of, there's enough blade showing in the closed position you can pinch it and flip your wrist to open it one-handed. My folding hunters (especially the Bucks) have benefited from rounding off the corners of the bolsters and scales to about double the factory radius. Knife nuts call this "melting" the edges, and it helps the knife sit easier in your hand and wears the sheath or your pocket less.

Is the second pattern SF the one with the ball on the pommel? The two-edged blade and brass guard make this one less useful for general cutting tasks but more suited for stabbing, as you mention "non-utility". I don't know diddly-squat about knife fighting, except for one thing: anybody I could potentially fight with a knife, I'd much rather shoot them from farther away. I consider the knife as a tool, and the handgun as a weapon, but that's just me.

Don't know much about kukris either, preferring the straighter machete designs. Most of the kukris I've seen have been older, made of carbon steel (not stainless), and would take a good edge.

Like James, I carry a smaller knife also. During the 50s and 60s, the knife mfgrs in and around Providence, Rhode Island produced millions of small penknives with stamped steel bolsters and celluloid scales that sold for a couple bucks new, and you can still find them used for cheap. The frames and handles are nothing to write home about, but the blades are good carbon steel, easily reshaped and honed to a keen edge. They're also pretty non-threatening to people who might become nervous at the sight of a larger knife, if that matters to you.

I favor a two blade jack with roughly a 1" and a 2" blade, reshaped close to a Wharncliff shape with very little curve to the sharp edge. I hone the shorter blade very fine and narrow, and use it for removing splinters and trimming my fingernails. The longer blade gets used for other cutting and small scraping tasks. I have given several of these away to people without a knife, and they've been pleasantly grateful.

What you should have written is, "I don't know much about knives yet." It's a slippery slope, dude...

Parker

[Selena]

A knife is a tool, the Sykes-Fairburn is a design for a very specific purpose unlikely to be found outside a war zone.

As for evaluation- not enough information. If you are making bows, your Puma isn't enough knife. If you are opening your mail, it's too much knife.

But, considering I have a scalpel in my purse I have room none to talk.

[Boberama]

Is the second pattern SF the one with the ball on the pommel?

I don't think so, it tapers down.

. If it's the one I'm thinking of, there's enough blade showing in the closed position you can pinch it and flip your wrist to open it one-handed.

Thanks for the tip. There's enough blae showing to get a good grip.

A knife is a tool, the Sykes-Fairburn is a design for a very specific purpose unlikely to be found outside a war zone.

I consider the knife as a tool, and the handgun as a weapon, but that's just me.

Can't carry guns here...
But knives are OK as long as they're not carried for "a purpose dangerous".

[ArfinGreebly]

Can't carry guns here...
But knives are OK as long as they're not carried for "a purpose dangerous".

Sykes-Fairburn

If where you live is anything like the rest of the Commonwealth, the Sykes-Fairburn will very definitely qualify for "purpose dangerous" status.

[Loosedhorse]

This is my "non-utility" knife.

I prefer the term "single-purpose knife." Though, if the knife is pretty, it serves a second purpose as well--so maybe dual-purpose would be better.



I own a dual-purpose knife. I am not allowed to carry it here, or in most North-East states. Falls under the "dirk or dagger" term. If I were allowed to carry it, I probably would, because of its second purpose: pure esthetic joy.

[Joe Demko]

I've owned a couple variants of the Sykes-Fairbairn knife and am not greatly enamored of it. It is, indeed, a single purpose knife and that purpose is basically stabbing someone who is unaware of your presence. Breakage at the point is common. Breakage at the tang a lttle less so. Depending on who made it, and when, an individual knife may be be somewhat tougher or more fragile. It's a sexy knife, to be sure, but there is a reason that there have been so many improved versions of it, the Applegate-Fairbarn and the Gerber MkII are a couple examples.

[Lanius]

What about this combination:



The knife is supposedly made for cutting up dead animals into parts (portioning knife?). Would it be worthwhile to try to get a wooden replica and train with some knife fighters with it, or should I get an entirely different knife?

It's really good for cutting meat and bread and it doesn't rust. I got it for my 13th birthday I think.

This is a non gun thread.. but in case you are wondering.. no, that's not a Sig. That's a $400 Chinese copy of a Sig P226 which I bought second hand for $300... chief virtues are that it has gone bang every time so far, has a decent trigger and is more accurate than some Glocks.
The rubber band makes it obvious.. the damned chicoms copied the whole metric gun fine.. but put #&###### UNF fokking scheiße aluminum screws .. No chance in hell to get them here, and I haven't yet found the correct screws on Amazon. Or bought loctite.

[ArfinGreebly]

That combo won't fly for the OP.

I get the distinct impression he's not posting from within the US.

More like Canada or one of the other Commonwealth nations.

[pmeisel]

A knife is a tool, the Sykes-Fairburn is a design for a very specific purpose unlikely to be found outside a war zone.

I dunno. I have an Applegate-Fairbairn folder that I use as a pocketknife, often... it's a little smaller.... but pretty serious if you need it.

[ArfinGreebly]

For those who may be musing about the "general utility" of the F-S 2nd Pattern . . . some visual aids:

FSblack2.JPG -- Nickel2.JPG -- customengrave.JPG

The British Commando knife was first designed in 1940 by close combat legends William Fairbairn and Eric Sykes, who established and taught the combative training methods for wartime special forces such as the independent companies, SOE, Commandos, U.S Rangers and OSS.

Though known as the FS Fighting knife, this was not designed to be a knife fighting knife, but primarily designed to be used in silent killing actions such as sentry take-outs. The techniques of effective use were taught to various special forces at Highland training centres such as Lochailort Special Training Centre (STC) and Achnacarry, which was the Commando Basic Training Centre (CBTC) from 1942-1945.

=== snip ===

The 2nd pattern was manufactured by many companies throughout the UK, and has often been regarded as the most effective pattern of Commando knife ever made. The diamond knurled brass grip provides excellent purchase wet or dry. The hand-ground 7 inch high carbon steel blade carries both edges for the full length of the blade. The scabbard features an elastic retaining band for silent drawing, and rear tabs for stitching the scabbard to any piece of clothing or kit. Commandos were advised to carry their knives wherever they might find most convenient for access.

So, should you need a "general-purpose" Commando knife, this would be for you.

[catspa]

Lanius, that knife looks like it has elements of a "fighting knife" to me, not a knife for cutting up dead animals. The big ol' guard would get in the way when cutting meat, and I'd prefer a meat saw to those serrations on the spine. If the handle is rubberized, and gripped well even when slimy with blood, that'd be a useful feature, and being stainless would resist pitting and corrosion. I'm not knocking the knife, but I don't think it was intended for animal disassembly.

I doubt if a wooden replica would feel or balance the same as that knife. If you think you'll need to fight with it, practice with it I guess, but for me a knife cuts a lot of meat and bread (and rope and cardboard) and never gets used in anger, so I can't help you there. I'm glad you have the handgun option to defend yourself with.

Parker

[Lanius]

The problem is you can't go out drinking with a pistol. I mean... you can, but if you get caught under influence, your gun privilieges are gone for three years. Sucks. Swords, machetes, katanas or halberds.. you can get steaming drunk while wearing full plate armor and carrying one of those, and as long as no one will feel you are threatening anyone.. it's all a-okay.

[catspa]

I see. So no matter what weapon you choose to carry, will alcohol make you more adept at using it, if necessary?

I don't drink much, and never in public, but I see how those who do, and also want to be armed, can be faced with a real dilemma. Believing that there are threats out there worth arming myself against, I can't see deliberately impairing my most important weapon (my mind).

Parker

[Lanius]

@catspa
With four beers or 4 doubles in me.. I'm still probably far sharper than the average person is sober.

And if one should avoid drinking because he can reasonably fear becoming a victim of a crime while slightly drunk... it's high time to start thinking about moving.

Me.. I guess I may not even need weapons. I'm 6'4" tall in shoes, and I'm fairly sure criminals don't like targeting people who are a lot taller than them.

[therewolf]

Your paradigm seems good for you.

Just like guns, IMO, it's all very personal.

I prefer the extended utility of a Leatherman Surge for

EDC.

As to SD, it's not the weapon, it's the mindset.

Attack me, and you have to deal with ME,

regardless of any weapon I hold at the time.

[catspa]

So you only need a defense against criminals taller than 76" (as long as you keep your shoes on...) Don't get drunk enough to kick off your shoes, is all I can suggest.

With 4 beers or doubles on board, are you sharper than your attacker(s)? That's the real uestion. Unfortunately, we don't know who they'll be or when they'll confront you.

I don't really know if my fear of becoming a violent crime victim is reasonable or not. The last time was a long time ago, but it really sucked. So much so that I pissed myself, as a matter of fact. So I do whatever I can to prevent it happening again.

Parker

ETA: I was sober at the time...

[Lanius]

I wonder how I will fare. On one hand, I often run various SD scenarios through my head. I have pronounced berserker tendencies, and I can really work myself up to a rage quickly. I don't usually have any reason to be angry.. but it feels really nice to get pissed off and try to go medieval on someone's ass. Last time I did it.. it was fun. No knives, I just smashed the guy's nose.

I guess..taking out a big knife, slicing my arm a bit(taking care not to open any veins), then licking the blood off the blade while looking at the BG's would do the trick. If not.. I'll start to grin and giggle and advance slowly. At that point, they'll have to decide whether they should run or not.. but I've been told most criminals are not trying to engage tall, gaunt knife wielding psychos who look like they want to fight......

Scaring would be muggers is okay, I've been told.

[James T Thomas]

No matter where you are; geographically, Slovovia, for that matter, 'If you Live -by the 'sword' you will die by the sword'.

[Lanius]

The trick is to keep the other guy thinking it's gonna be a sword fight.. and then pull out a pocket pistol

Still, I don't really get what you are trying to say. I'm a harmless person, and have never gone out looking for a fight..

[Uncle fuzzy]

The John Ek pattern is a lot more sturdy than the F-S. The Germans has a standing order to shoot anybody with one of the F-S knives.

Back to reality (Sorry I know that sucks)... If you want to carry a knife for defense then some basic thoughts: You want a reasonable sized fixed blade from 3" to 6". Around 4" carries well and is sized for general work. The bigger and scarier looking the harder to conceal and often more impractical. You need to figure out how you are going to carry the thing. You want something that is quality, but not so expensive you can not afford to "loose" it if needed.

Take a good look at John Ek and AG Russel's Sting. Also look at the Boot/'chute style knives, there are some classic Bob Loveless styles that are often copied. You do not need a double edged blade. You do need to be able to slash. Stab is good, but you may not get there until you slash first.

You want a blade made from something like D-2, 1095, 440b or C, or 154cmp and ~3mm thick. You do not need a super steel, but you need good heat treatment.

[Lanius]

The knife in the picture would do? I suspect it must be heat treated, because it holds the edge well.

Though, I'd really like a punch/slash dagger, a knuckle duster with a blade, but one that'd be good for both slashing and punching. That'd be more practical. Maybe with a handguard.. does anyone sell anything like that?

[Uncle fuzzy]

Lanius,

Most knives are heat treated. That does not mean that they are heat treated well... Your's is made from a plain steel and has good heat treatment.

There are somethings you knife does well. There are a lot of things it does not do well. It will slash very well. It puts a lot of power to the point. The curve in the blade helps. The handle or "Tang" is the weak point.

The knife is made as a field knife. Look at Randall # 15 and see the differances. Chris Reeve makes some good field knives as well and those are worth a look. Boker/puma and Fallkniven are some of the European makers that "get it." Look at Fallkniven's A-1 survival knife and see how much simpler it is in blade design. Simple is your friend, there is that much less to go wrong.

http://www.budnealyknifemaker.com http://www.dozierknives.com Here are some of the state of the art concealment knives and -SHEATHS-. Many people make a neat knife, but thier sheath is made for fishing.

[Lanius]

It's hardly plain steel. ;-) It's obviously something austenitic, at least quality stainless steel.

My sweat is pretty corrosive, and I swear I've never put oil on that blade..