I have a goverment model 1911 that a socalled smith worked on.
Now the case hits me in the nose on ejection.
Do you think changing the recoil spring would fix this problem?
I have a goverment model 1911 that a socalled smith worked on.
Now the case hits me in the nose on ejection.
Do you think changing the recoil spring would fix this problem?
I'd check the ejector first. The Kuhnhausen shop manual makes it appear that replacement might be done by the amateur with the right tools, principally a 1/16 inch punch and a padded vice, but I would take mine to a qualified 'smith.
Gee, I'd love to see your data!
I'd study the extractor.
I have a few facts and a lot of opinions.
OK, Kuhnhausen has a troubleshooting note for: Extractor>Vectors shell overhead>check bottom extr. angle>dress as needed.
Extractors are easily replaced. Brownell's has a variety of them. If you have other 1911s or a cooperative shooting buddy who does, you might do a test swap first.
Of course, a qualified gunsmith couldn't hurt.
Gee, I'd love to see your data!
Take very fine stone to the ejector. You can tune where the case throws with just a few strokes of a stone.
Yep. And it's easy to tune.
Picture the ejector in your head--or, strip the pistol and look at it.
Note where the longest point is on the extractor.
Item #1--the longer the extractor, the more forceful the ejection.
Take a look now at the LOCATION of the point.
Item #2--With the top of the pistol being 12 o'clock, the higher and sharper that point is, the more pronounced the angle of ejection will be, from straight up to a 45 degree angle to the right.
Now, look at the bevel on the ejector point. It is probably beveled on the right side.
Item #3--the more pronounced the bevel, the further back the case ejection will be. In other words, a pronounced bevel will throw cases right back at you.
The easy fix?
Go back to the basics, and install a good GI profile ejector in the gun.
Get the appropriate punch, and drift the pin out. Remove the old ejector, and clean the holes. Now, apply a bit of Loctite to the base of the pins, and tap it into place with a soft mallet.
Re-install the pin. Best way is to get an entirely new pin. Shorten it just a hair to make sure that it will go completely in.
Re-assemble the gun, and check for smooth cycling.
Now, take a fired or a freshly resized case. When you chamber it, try to get it to feed from the magazine. If you can't, drop it in the chamber and GENTLY close the slide. You don't want to slam it--the extractor is jumping the rim, and it is not designed to feed that way. Once the case is chambered, pull the slide back SMARTLY and note the ejection pattern. The job should be done at that point. Good luck!
Hiding in plain sight....
Thanks for the info--I will give it a shot.
I sure picked the wrong smith--I took the gun back & the guy had closed his shop & gone out of business. This was at least 25 years ago--I guess even that far back he had been held up too many times.
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This is the angle on ejector
[IMG][/IMG]
This gun is still in pretty good shape--that why I want to repair it.
That appears to be a GI ejector--but it sure looks like it has been battered around a lot.
Your options:
Adjust the original ejector with careful stoning. The problem is that there is not too much there to begin with.
Or, you can replace the ejector with a SLIGHTLY extended ejector. You should be able to find what you need at:
www.brownells.com
including any tool that you need to do the job.
Hiding in plain sight....
Before I replaced the Ejector, I'd try square it up a bit. It will not take much unless stuff is soft.
I'd also check the extractor tension. They can go "soft" after a while if the heat treatment was off a bit.
I've been there for both of those...
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