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Thread: Has Anyone Tried...

  1. #1
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    Has Anyone Tried...

    ...a 45 caliber, gas check type bullet in a 44 cap and ball revolver? Seems to me the rebated base (without the gas check of course) would slip right into a chamber, making for a good start, but I wonder of it would fit in far enough to get under the ram. I'm thinking of trying it. Something in the 250 grain range, like this;
    http://www.midwayusa.com/product/664...tter-gas-check
    but then it would have to fit under the ram on my '58 Remington, and it may require a different ram so as not to distort the bullet.

    I've been using the Lee 450-200-1R (200 grains) and it works fine. Apparently there were some 250ish grain bullets used in these guns back in the 1860s, which is why I'm curious.

  2. #2
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    If it is made of the usual hard alloy, it will be very difficult to seat the bullet. (If it works at all.) If you are going to try this, I suggest using a cylinder loading tool, not the rammer on the gun. That way you have better leverage, and it will lbe much easier to remove a stuck 1/2 seated bullet.

    Soft lead is used for cap-n-ball for several reasons, including that "shave to fit" that ensures a good seal in the chamber.
    Burt Blade

  3. #3
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    It's sold as a mold, meaning you can cast the bullets out of whatever. Though some shapes asre easier cast with some tin in the mix. Anyway; several cap and ball revolver shooters are reporting good results with ball or bullets cast from wheel weights. If you're already casting, you probably have both pure lead and wheel weights. I for example have pure lead, wheel weights, pure tin, and 30% antimonial lead, so I can get just about any bullet alloy I want. The question is about fit in the traditional C&B revolvers.

  4. #4
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    The tiny heel on a bullet of gas check design would be difficult to start straight. At least, that was my experience about 35 years ago when I tried it.
    At a yard sale, I found a can of what appeared to be .45 Long Colt 250 grain bullets made for a gas check. No gas check fitted. The price was right.
    Tried to use them in a cheap 1851 Navy in .44 caliber that I had at the time. I had difficulty getting them seat straight because the heel is so narrow. Just didn't give me a good head-start on seating it.
    As I recall, I was using 15 grs. of DuPont FFFG black powder. Even then, I never could get all that comparatively long bullet crammed into the chamber. I had to trim off the excess with a knife, whittling it away. Eventually I got it to the point where the cylinder would turn.
    It fired okay. I pulled the trigger and it went bang, with the bullet making it out of the barrel. Recoil was noticeably stiffer. I'm likely lucky I didn't blow the gun, considering the 255 gr. bullet (minus whatever I whittled off), even with a light load must have generated some hefty pressures.
    But I was 16 and stoopid at the time. I'd never try such a stunt today, not from a cheap, brass-framed .44 revolver.
    I never tried another cylinderful. Just too much bother.
    If you MUST shoot conical bullets, buy the Lee bullet mould made for .44 cap and ball revolvers. It's the most accurate conical bullet I've found over the decades, but the humble lead ball is still consistently more accurate.
    Unless you're shooting a Ruger Old Army, buy the Lee mould of .450" diameter. The larger diameter mould is intended for the Ruger.
    "And therein did I see an ugly cat. Blue smoke. Brimstone. Holes in paper. And this ugly cat was much amused." --- the prophesies of Gatodamus (1503 - 1566).

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